Al Davis /San Antonio Realtor
Just Focus Real Estate
506 N. Main Cibolo TX 78108
726-213-4779
PCS-friendly timeline
Remote showings, deadline planning, and a clean game plan so you don’t rush into the wrong zip.
VA + Move Up strategy
Down payment, funding fee basics, concessions, and when an assumable loan is worth the extra steps.
San Antonio local clarity
Commute logic, neighborhood feel, and resale reality so your next move is smart, not just exciting.
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Start here
Tap a section to jump. Read in order if you’re brand new.
Choose the right agent
(so you don’t get played)
If you’re PCS’ing or moving up, the wrong agent costs you time, money, and stress. Your agent should be your translator, negotiator, and deadline protector.
What a good agent actually does
Builds a plan around your timeline and payment comfort
Explains the contract in plain English before you sign anything
Negotiates credits, repairs, and terms like it’s their money
Spots red flags fast (location, resale, HOA rules, hidden costs)
Keeps you on schedule so closing doesn’t get delayed
What’s your strategy to win concessions in this market?
How do you protect me if the inspection is bad?
How do you handle remote showings and quick decisions for PCS?
What are the top 3 reasons deals fall apart here and how do you prevent it?
What should I never do during underwriting?
Red flags
They rush you without explaining
They only talk about “monthly payment” but ignore taxes, insurance, HOA
They can’t explain the contract or deadlines simply
They avoid negotiation and act like everything is “take it or leave it”
Next, we’ll pick your financing lane so you know what you can actually do before you fall in love with a house.
Financing lanes
(pick the right one first)
Your loan type decides your down payment, your monthly payment, and how strong your offer looks. Most people shop homes first and figure out money later. That’s backwards.
Lane 1: VA (PCS-friendly)
Best for: eligible military buyers who want flexibility and a strong long-term play
The big wins: often low or no down payment, competitive terms
What to watch: funding fee (unless exempt), appraisal/condition requirements, and timeline if you’re trying to move fast
Smart move: ask your lender for two scenarios:
normal pricing
pricing with seller concessions used for closing costs or a rate buydown
Lane 2: Conventional (strongest “clean” offer)
Best for: move-up buyers with equity, or buyers with solid credit
The big wins: smoother appraisal rules, sometimes wins in multiple-offer situations
What to watch: PMI if you’re under 20% down, and rates can vary a lot based on credit
Lane 3: FHA (great tool, not a flex)
Best for: buyers with smaller down payment or rebuilding credit
The big wins: more flexible credit guidelines
What to watch: mortgage insurance is usually both upfront and monthly, and some sellers get picky about condition items
The “buy smart” rule
Don’t pick the loan because it sounds cool. Pick it based on:
payment comfort
cash you actually have after moving costs
how competitive your offer needs to be
how long you plan to stay in the home
VA Assumable loans (when it’s a cheat code)
If you find a home with an assumable VA loan, the rate might be lower than today’s market. The tradeoff is:
more paperwork
lender approval process
and you may need cash to cover the seller’s equity gap
If you want me to run the math on one, I can break it down simple.
Next we talk preapproval, because “I think I can afford it” doesn’t win houses.
Preapproval
(the part that decides your real budget)
Preapproval isn’t just a letter. It’s the lender verifying your income, debts, and credit so your offer is taken seriously. “Prequalified” is usually just a quick estimate and it can set you up to waste time.
What you need before you shop hard
A real preapproval letter
A payment target you can live with (not just “max approval”)
A plan for closing costs (cash, seller credit, lender credit)
Ask your lender for 2 numbers (this is the smart move)
Your comfortable payment (what fits your life)
Your absolute ceiling (what you could do in a pinch)
The 3 costs rookies forget
Property taxes (Texas can be heavy depending on area)
Homeowners insurance
HOA dues (if applicable)
Ask for 2 loan scenarios
Scenario A: normal pricing
Scenario B: with seller concessions covering closing costs or buying down the rate
What NOT to do during underwriting
Don’t open new credit (cars, furniture, cards)
Don’t move money around without explaining it
Don’t miss documentation requests (that’s how closings get delayed)
Next we’ll talk home search strategy, because you don’t want to pick a house that doesn’t fit your commute, lifestyle, or future resale.
Home search strategy (PCS + move up)
Next is offer strategy. This is where you either protect yourself… or you learn expensive lessons.
The best house on paper can still be the wrong move if the commute, school zone, HOA rules, or resale reality doesn’t fit your life. Your search needs a filter before it becomes a time-waster.
Step 1: Set your non-negotiables (3 max)
Pick only 3 or you’ll never decide:
commute time to base/work
bedroom count or flex space
yard/garage/parking needs
(Everything else is “nice to have.”)
Step 2: Shop by “payment lane,” not list price
Two homes with the same price can have totally different total monthly cost because of:
taxes
insurance
HOA
So we always check the full monthly picture.
Step 3: PCS buyers need a “rent-backup plan”
Ask yourself:
If I PCS again, would this home rent easily
Does the HOA allow rentals and what are the rules
Is the layout and location attractive to future buyers
Step 4: New build vs resale (how to decide)
Resale wins when: you want mature neighborhoods, more character, possibly better location
New build wins when: you want warranties, predictable condition, sometimes incentives
Either way: don’t assume new build means “no inspection.” Still inspect.
Step 5: Use a tight showing strategy
Instead of seeing 12 homes randomly:
pick 5–7 homes max
see them in one or two focused blocks
rank them immediately after each showing
That keeps your decision clean and reduces regret.
Offer strategy + protections (so you don’t get trapped)
In Texas, the offer isn’t just price. Your terms decide whether you’re protected, whether you can negotiate, and whether you can walk away clean if something’s off.
The 4 pieces of a strong offer
Price (based on comps and the home’s condition)
Seller concessions (closing costs, rate buydown, repairs)
Timeline (closing date + option period length)
Strength signals (preapproval, earnest money, flexibility)
The protection most buyers need: the Option Period
This is your “time to inspect and decide” window.
During this time you can negotiate repairs/credits, or exit if the deal isn’t right.
How to use it smart
Don’t go too short just to “win”
Give yourself enough time for inspection and follow-ups
Use it to negotiate based on real findings, not vibes
Concessions in today’s market (how to ask without sounding crazy)
Ask for concessions when:
the home has been sitting
condition needs work
you’re buying down the rate or need help with closing costs
Concessions can be cleaner than a price cut because it lowers your cash-to-close or payment.
What a “safe offer” includes (in simple terms)
Enough option time to inspect properly
Financing timelines that match your lender
A plan if appraisal comes in low
Clear deadlines so nobody drags their feet
What NOT to do
Don’t waive protections just to feel competitive
Don’t skip reading the deadlines
Don’t assume “new build = no risk”
Don’t let anyone rush you into signing something you don’t understand
Next we’ll talk inspections and negotiation, because that’s where you uncover what you’re really buying.
Inspection + negotiation
(where smart buyers save money)
Next is appraisal + underwriting, because this is where deals get delayed if you move sloppy.
The inspection isn’t there to scare you. It’s there to tell you what you’re actually buying. Almost every home has issues. The point is to find the expensive ones and negotiate like an adult.
What an inspection is for
Safety issues (electrical, gas, hazards)
Big-ticket systems (roof, HVAC, plumbing, foundation indicators)
Water problems (drainage, leaks, past repairs)
“Near-term expenses” you’ll pay soon after closing
What to do right after the inspection
Read the summary first (don’t panic on page 47)
Identify the top 5 real issues
Decide what you want:
repairs
a credit
a price adjustment
or walk away (if it’s truly not it)
How to negotiate without being unrealistic
Ask for:
Safety items
Major system items
Water intrusion / active leaks
Anything that affects financing or insurability
Skip:
cosmetic stuff
tiny maintenance items (unless it’s a pattern of neglect)
Repairs vs credit (which is smarter)
Credit is usually cleaner because you control the repair quality after closing
Repairs can be fine when it’s something lender-required or safety related
Either way: get it in writing and track deadlines.
PCS tip (important)
If you’re on a tight timeline, schedule inspection fast and be available for follow-up calls. Delays usually come from slow decision-making after the report comes in.
Appraisal + underwriting
(how deals get delayed)
This part feels boring, but it’s where closings get pushed back. Appraisal checks the home’s value. Underwriting checks you and your finances. Your job is to stay steady and responsive.
Appraisal (what it actually does)
Confirms the home value supports the loan amount
Protects the lender from over-lending
Can trigger renegotiation if value comes in low
If appraisal comes in low, your options are usually:
seller reduces price
you bring the difference (cash)
you renegotiate terms/credits
you walk (depending on contract/financing)
Underwriting (how to not create problems)
Underwriting wants consistency. So keep your life boring until you close.
Do not:
buy a car
open or close credit cards
run up balances
change jobs or income structure without telling the lender
move large amounts of money around without a paper trail
Do:
respond fast to document requests
keep paystubs/bank statements accessible
ask questions when you don’t understand something
keep your agent and lender in the loop on timing
PCS-specific move
If your report date is tight:
lock your timeline early
don’t wait to schedule appraisal
keep your phone on for lender requests
Speed is mostly communication, not magic.
Next is closing day and the after-closing money moves most people miss.
Closing + after-closing money moves
(don’t skip this)
Closing is the finish line, but the “money moves” after closing are what keep your payment and taxes from sneaking up on you.
Before you sign
Review your Closing Disclosure with your lender
Make sure the cash-to-close number matches what you planned
Don’t wire money to random instructions without verifying by phone (scams are real)
Keep your ID and docs ready
The final walkthrough (simple)
Walk the home shortly before closing to confirm:
agreed repairs are completed (if any)
the home is in the same condition
no new damage happened
everything included is still there
Closing day basics
You sign a lot
Your lender/title company funds and records
Then you get keys (timing varies)
After closing: 3 smart moves
Homestead exemption
Apply if eligible so you don’t overpay property taxes. Put it on your calendar so you don’t forget.
Insurance check
Make sure your policy is active and reflects what you’re actually buying (coverage, deductible, named insureds).
Payment plan
Set autopay and keep a cushion for the first year because taxes/insurance can adjust.
PCS move-up buyer advice
If there’s even a chance you PCS again:
keep records (repairs, receipts, upgrades)
think resale/rentability early
don’t over-customize in a way that hurts future buyers
If you want this dialed in to your timeline and payment comfort, take the 2-minute survey and I’ll map out the smart path.